Friday, June 10, 2011

Baselwear

Engravings of Swiss clothing styles from the 1630s



engraving 1634 - Basel costumes
How to admire one another in a good year



17th century Swiss fashion
Guildmaster and servants



Basler Kleidung j
Maidservants: fast mouth-work, slow housework



Basler Kleidung
Schoolmaster, teacher-assistant and student



Basler Kleidung e
Noblewomen and their maidservants going to church



Basler Kleidung a
The marriage court made up of a board member,
a clergyman and a member of the local council



Basler Kleidung b
Local aristocrats



Basler Kleidung k
A good woman beats the wine out of her drunken husband's head



Basler Kleidung d
Bridegroom and nobleman



Basler Kleidung c
Young fellows



Basler Kleidung f
A woman mourning her husband



Basler Kleidung g
Wine merchant (street crier)



Basler Kleidung h
A sexton and a heat controller (or fire stoker) announce a public auction



Basler Kleidung l
Peasants heading for the market


[All the images were spliced together from screen shots; the first image was slightly background cleaned; click through on any for an enlarged version]


Hans Heinrich Glaser (1585-1673) was an engraver from Basel in Switzerland who is best known for two volumes of fashion illustrations he produced about a decade apart. The first, from the 1620s, was copied from other illustrators.

Glaser's second book - 'Basler Kleidung', the subject of this post - was published in 1634 and remains a well regarded historical source for Basel's 17th century clothing and culture. The illustrator also exhibits a wry sense of humour at times, obviously.

'Basler Kleidung' (~Basel Fashion) is available online at the e-rara site of Universitätsbibliothek Basel (note the thumbnails link at the top of the page).

There are a couple of biographical sources around, both of which become impenetrably mangled by the online translation: One; Two.

I am grateful to typographer/designer Nina Stössinger for help with the caption translations. And, by some extraordinary coincidence, Nina is working on a project this year that includes images from this book. The odds for this must be just astronomical.

Previously: costumes.



Tangentially related: Illuminating Fashion: Dress in the Art of Medieval France and the Netherlands at The Morgan Library [VIA].

Friday, June 03, 2011

Japanese Woodblock Prints

"The Barry Rosensteel Japanese Print Collection consists of 126 woodblock prints that date from the eighteenth to early twentieth centuries. The work of over forty artists is represented in the collection [..]

The images portray Japanese culture through detailed depictions of portraits, landscapes, wildlife and theatrical performances, taking into account some of Japan’s rich history. [..]

The earliest print, dating to 1760, is by Kitao Shigemasa (1739-1820) and depicts a carp leaping a waterfall. The works of several artists of the Utagawa school are found in the collection. [..]

The prints were produced with high-quality paper. Vegetative color pigments, and, in some cases, ground precious metals, were used as part of the creative process."
[from: Collection Contents at the University of Pittsburgh]



Eguchi no Kimi seated on a recumbent pink elephant representing the Bodhisattva Fugen (1850)
Title: Eguchi no Kimi seated on a recumbent pink elephant representing the Bodhisattva Fugen
Creator: Sadahiro, Utagawa (active ca. 1825-1875)
Date: 1850



Portrait of an actor in a purple robe on striped fan (date uknown)
Title: Portrait of an actor in a purple robe on striped fan
Creator: Yoshiyuki, Mori (1835-1879)
Date: Unknown



Okubi-e portrait of a beauty (date uknown)
Title: Okubi-e portrait of a beauty
Subjects: Block printing, Japanese; Geishas in art.
Creator: Chikanobu, Kitagawa
Date: Unknown



Longevite (1948)
Title: Longevite
Creator: Jacoulet, Paul (1902-1960)
Date: November 28, 1948



Umekuni, Toyokawa (active first quarter 19th century) (1820)
Title: Portrait of Ichikawa Ebijuro (Japanese actor)
Creator: Umekuni, Toyokawa (active first quarter 19th century)
Date: 1820



The courtesan Tsukonosuke with her attendant gazing at a cuckoo in the rain (1861)
Title: The courtesan Tsukonosuke with her attendant gazing at a cuckoo in the rain
Series: Thirty-six Manners and Customs of Courtesans
Creator: Toyokuni III, Utagawa [Utagawa Kunisada] (1786-1864)
Date: 1861



Nakamura Utaemon III as Ichikawa Goemon (1828)
Title: Nakamura Utaemon III as Ichikawa Goemon
Creator: Ashiyuki
Date: 1826



Swans (date unknown)
Title: Swans
Creator: Shoson, Ohara (1877-1945)
Date: Unknown

Update: see - The Art of Ohara Shôson at Scriblets.



Return from Festival (Matsuri kudari), Nakamura Utaemon on horseback accompanied by a group of five actors (1810) a
Title: Return from Festival (Matsuri kudari), Nakamura Utaemon on horseback accompanied by a group of five actors
Creator: Toyokuni, Utagawa (1769-1825)
Date: 1810
Note: One frame from triptych; prints depicting actors in everyday life are rare.



A Daimyo's wife and her attendants fording a river in a palanquin (1794)
Title: A Daimyo's wife and her attendants fording a river in a palanquin
Creator: Toyokuni, Utagawa (1769-1825)
Date: 1794
Note: One frame from triptych



Half-length portrait of an actor as Kaneomaru (date unknown)
Title: Half-length portrait of an actor as Kaneomaru
Series: Edo meisho zue (Famous Views of Edo)
Creator: Kunisada, Utagawa (1786-1864)
Date: Unknown



The Barry Rosensteel Japanese Print Collection is available from the University of Pittsburgh [thumbnails].

Previously: Japan; from the delicious bookmarks - a collection of general category tags and brief summaries helping to organise all 1100+ BibliOdyssey posts.

Thursday, June 02, 2011

Anatomia Vegetal

Visualising the Cell Nucleus -- Anatomia Vegetal 1929, pub. by FE Wachsmuth a

Visualising the Cell Nucleus




Leaf growth -- Anatomia Vegetal 1929, pub. by FE Wachsmuth d
Leaf growth




Cell growth -- Anatomia Vegetal 1929, pub. by FE Wachsmuth
Cell growth




Cell organelles and cytoplasm visualisation -- Anatomia Vegetal 1929, pub. by FE Wachsmuth b
Cell organelles and cytoplasm visualisation




Cell membrane (or is it wall) growth -- Anatomia Vegetal 1929, pub. by FE Wachsmuth c
Cell membrane and cell wall growth




Dicot stem cross-section -- Anatomia Vegetal 1929, pub. by FE Wachsmuth e
Dicotyledon* stem cross-section




Woody cells of conifer -- Anatomia Vegetal 1929, pub. by FE Wachsmuth f
Woody cells of conifer




Monocot stem cross-section -- Anatomia Vegetal 1929, pub. by FE Wachsmuth g
Monocotyledon* stem cross-section




These fabulous botanical microanatomy plates constitute the total of illustrations present in 'Anatomia Vegetal' by Frederik Elfving (1929) and published by FE Wachsmuth (Leipzig) which is online at La Biblioteca Virtual de Patrimonio Bibliográfico from the Spanish Ministry of Culture.

Elfving (1854-1942) was a professor of botany at the University of Helsinki. There are a couple of books at the Internet Archive about a voyage to North America to which he contributed.
Apparently there is descriptive text to accompany the illustration plates but it doesn't appear to have been digitised.

[via + via, plus all other points in between across the tumblr-verse]

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Sunday, May 29, 2011

Falconry

Falconry is the art of using a trained raptor (bird of prey) to hunt wild quarry like birds or small mammals. The practice dates to at least 2000 BC and birds used for falconry (or hawking, a near-synonymous term in the modern parlance) include buzzards, eagles, Harris hawk, Peregrine falcons, Lanner falcon, Gyrfalcon, goshawks, owls and kestrels, among others.

The pastime is complicated and time-consuming and, in America at least, requires a minimum two year apprenticeship. The raptors are not pets and do not establish a bond with their handlers beyond trust and food source. Objections to falconry have been raised by environmentalists (it is virtually outlawed in Australia, albeit indirectly, for example) but the falconry community has made significant and undeniable contributions to species conservation and protection. I don't know enough to have an opinion other than to suppose that the trainer/handler licensing should be stringent (not too different from my thoughts on parenting).

The lithographs below, produced in the mid-1800s, come from 'Traité de Fauconnerie' by H Schlegel and AH Verster de Wulverhorst [source].



chromolithograph of Hooded falcon perched on handler's gloved hand, by H Schlegel, 1853
Le Groënlandais, Faucon Blanc Mué


(Hooded White Greenlander falcon or gyrfalcon - based on a portrait of the bird by Pierre Louis Dubourcq)



Close-up of hooded bird's head
Hooded falcon close-up



frontispiece / title-page of 'Traité de Fauconnerie' by H Schlegel, 1853
Titlepage of 'Traité de Fauconnerie', 1844-1853


Each of the above images was spliced together from screen captures;
click through to large and very large versions.




book illustration of training equipment used in falconry
Tethering and training equipment used in falconry




raptor hoods - 1853 lithograph
Raptor* hoods

"Falconry hoods are among the very first pieces of equipment that a falconer will obtain when beginning to learn the art of falconry. A properly fitted hood ensures that the bird remains calm while in the presence of humans, as otherwise it may become alarmed and distraught. A hood is essential in making a bird ready for training. The acclimatization of the bird to humans is known as "manning" and is the first step in the training regimen." [source]




L'Émérillon Hagard, le Tiercelet sors et Hagard d'Émérillon




hawk illustration
Le Tiercelet sors de l'Autour




raptor lithograph
Le tiercelet Hagard de Faucon d'Islande




picture of two birds used in falconry
L'Épervier sors et le Mouchet Hagard





Le Faucon Hagard

[A bird of prey "taken from a nest in the wild or bred in captivity is known as an eyas. A hawk trapped during its first year in the wild is called a passager, and a hawk trapped in its adult plumage is termed a haggard. The female peregrine falcon is properly called a falcon, and the male — which, in common with most species of raptors, is smaller than the female — is known as a tiercel." {source}]



falcon on rock staring up intently
Le Sacre Hagard



lithograph of crouched raptor
Le Gerfaut Sors



'Traité de Fauconnerie' (1844-1853) by Hermann Schlegel and Abraham H Verster van Wulverhorst is available online at Heinrich Heine Universität Düsseldorf [click 'Übersicht' for thumbnail pages] [Amazon]
"The finest work on Falconry which has ever been produced; not only on account of the beauty of the plates, wherein the hawks are depicted life-size and of the natural colours, but also for the general accuracy of the letterpress. [..]

Exclusive of the ornamented title-page, there are 16 folio plates, 2 of which are illustrative of Heron Hawking at the Loo, in 1844, with portraits of contemporary falconers; 2 others contain figures of hoods, jesses, lure, and other accessories; and the remaining 12 give life-sized coloured figures of the hawks employed by falconers, admirably drawn by Joseph Wolf and J. B. Sonderland."
As quoted from the veritable bible of falconry literature: 'Bibliotheca Accipitraria : A Catalogue of Books Ancient and Modern Relating to Falconry' By James Harting, 1891 (Revised) Online | Amazon | Bibliothecca Accipitraria II.

'Traité de Fauconnerie' was published in an elephant folio format (about 20x25 inches - hence, the descriptions talk of "life size" illustrations). It was issued in three instalments over nine years.

Less than one hundred copies were originally issued in the first edition between 1844 and 1853, of which only about fifty copies are known to have survived. I've seen prices in recent years ranging from £12,000 to £28,000 to £36,500 and the Abu Dhabi National Library was quoted more than £95,000 for a first edition copy last year to outfit their falconry collection.

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens

Peter Pan - 'Preposterous!' cried Solomon in a rage.19

"Preposterous!" cried Solomon in a rage.



Peter Pan - The Kensington Gardens are in London...2
The Kensington Gardens are in London..



Peter Pan - …they stand quite still pretending to be flowers… 25
…they stand quite still pretending to be flowers…



Peter Pan - The fairies are exquisite dancers. 26
The fairies are exquisite dancers.



Peter Pan - The fairies have their tiffs with the birds.12
The fairies have their tiffs with the birds.



Peter Pan - A chrysanthemum heard her...40
A chrysanthemum heard her..



Peter Pan - The Serpentine is a lovely lake... 7
The Serpentine is a lovely lake..



Peter Pan - They will certainly mischief you. 49
They will certainly mischief you.



Peter Pan - Old Mr. Salford was a crab-apple of an old gentleman... 10
Old Mr. Salford was a crab-apple of an old gentleman..



Peter Pan - They all tickled him on the shoulder.34
They all tickled him on the shoulder.



Peter Pan - When her Majesty wants to know the time. 29
When her Majesty wants to know the time.



Peter Pan - Put his strange case before old Solomon Caw. 15
Put his strange case before old Solomon Caw.



Peter Pan - If the bad ones among the fairies happen to be out...48
If the bad ones among the fairies happen to be out..



Peter Pan - When he heard Peter's voice...13
When he heard Peter's voice..


"Peter Pan first appeared in a section of 'The Little White Bird', a 1902 novel written by JM Barrie for adults.

The character's best-known adventure debuted on 27 December 1904, in the stage play 'Peter Pan, or The Boy Who Wouldn't Grow Up'. The play was adapted and expanded somewhat as a novel, published in 1911 as 'Peter and Wendy' (later as 'Peter Pan and Wendy', and still later as simply 'Peter Pan').

Following the highly successful debut of the 1904 play, Barrie's publishers, Hodder and Stoughton, extracted chapters 13–18 of 'The Little White Bird' and republished them in 1906 under the title 'Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens', with the addition of illustrations by Arthur Rackham."

 
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